COWEE MOUNTAIN TIMBER FRAMERS

104 Wykle Road Franklin, NC 28734
tel: (828) 342-8155
sales@timberframesales.com

Heating your Timber Frame

What is a Masonry Heater?

A Masonry Heater allows you to heat your home with wood in a unique way. Its main distinction is the ability to store a large amount of heat. This means that you can rapidly burn a large charge of wood without overheating your house. The heat is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and then slowly radiates into your house for the next 18 to 24 hours.

If you burn wood fairly rapidly, it is a clean fuel. If you try to burn it too slowly, the fire will change from flaming to smoldering combustion. The burning process is incomplete and produces tars. Atmospheric pollution increases dramatically. This is important if you are planning an energy-efficient house. The average energy demand of your house will be quite low. For most of the time, it may require only 1 to 2 kW of heat. For most conventional woodstoves, this is below their "critical burn rate", or the point where they start to smolder. In other words, woodburning and energy efficient houses don't really suit each other very well, unless you have some way to store heat so that your stove can operate in the "clean" range all of the time.

Masonry heaters fill the bill perfectly. If you need even a very small amount of heat, such as between seasons when you simply want to take off the chill, you simply burn a smaller fuel charge-yet you still burn it quickly. The large surface is never too hot to touch. You have a premium radiant heating system with a comfort level that simply cannot be equaled by convection or forced air systems. MHA Masonry Heater Definition A masonry heater is a site-built or site-assembled, solid-fueled heating device constructed mainly of masonry materials in which the heat from intermittent fires burned rapidly in its firebox is stored in its massive structure for slow release to the building. It has an interior construction consisting of a firebox and heat exchange channels built from refractory components.

Specifically, a masonry heater has the following characteristics:

A mass of at least 800 kg. (1760 lbs.),
Tight fitting doors that are closed during the burn cycle,
An overall average wall thickness not exceeding 250 mm (10 in.),
Under normal operating conditions, the external surface of the masonry heater, except immediately surrounding the fuel loading door(s), does not exceed 110 C. (230 F.),
The gas path through the internal heat exchange channels downstream of the firebox includes at least one 180 degree change in flow direction, usually downward, before entering the chimney,
The length of the shortest single path from the firebox exit to the chimney entrance is at least twice the largest firebox dimension,
A maximum chimney flue size of 200 mm X 300 mm (8 in. X 12 in.) nominal or 200 mm (8 in.) i.d. round, and
The body of the masonry heater and its chimney do not penetrate an exterior vertical wall of the building.
(passed unanimously at 1998 MHA Annual Meeting, June 8, 1998)

For Information on the Masonry Heater Association of North America:
http://mha-net.org/index.htm

One Cord of Firewood Conversion Values
4foot x 4foot x 4foot

One Cord of Hardwood weighs 5,758 pounds

One Cord of Pine weighs 5,232 pounds

One Cord of White Oak has 22.7 million BTU's

One Cord of Hickory has 24.6 million BTU's

One Cord of Red Maple has 18.6 million BTU's

One Cord of White Pine has 13.3 million BTU's

Board Foot Conversion: 3.5 cords= one thousand board feet

Firewood Permits Available From U.S. Forest Service

Tim Ashenfelter and his family live in an 1890's home in Minnesota. When they decided to renovate their kitchen, they had to tackle an ancient, sloping floor, and their contractor told them that the only way to even out the floor would be to have a product called Therma-Floor® poured. This gypsum floor underlayment is a perfect conductor of heat, and the Ashenfelters decided to have radiant floor heating installed, too. Hot water piping was laid on top of the floor structure before the Therma-Floor was poured. "We can't wait for winter," says Tim Ashenfleter, "to see how our kids feel, walking across that warm floor in the middle of a cold Minnesota winter!" When Terrance and Joan Fregley of Tallahassee decided they wanted the look of elegant marble floors, they also knew those floors would be chilly even in mild Florida winters. That's when they turned to radiant floor heating. "I wanted something to keep the floors warm during the winter." says Terrance. "In our case, radiant floor heating was a choice we made for its sheer comfort value. Our new floors not only feel good, they have added tremendously to the enjoyment of our home." Bill and Lois Kempley have lived off the land in rural Wisconsin for more than 20 years. They have relied on every kind of heating system, including wood. When they decided to build a new farmhouse, they opted for electric radiant floor heating. "It's the cleanest, safest, most comfortable heating system we've every owned." says Lois. "It's invisible and so quiet. No forced air blowers to listen to and no ugly baseboards, registers or radiators to look at." Kurt and Gerti Lausecker wanted every detail of their new home to be extra special. Kurt, who was raised in Germany with radiant floor heating, knew that he not only wanted the comfort of this heating system, he also knew first hand the energy efficiency of such a system. All 3,300 square feet of the Lausecker's new home is heated with radiant floor heating. "I can't tell you what a pleasure it is to be able to step out of our whirlpool onto a toasty warm floor," says Kurt. The Ashenfelters, Fregleys, Kempleys and Lauseckers are part of a growing trend, nationwide away from forced air heating and toward radiant floor heating. "We are beginning to see a major expansion in the market," says John Fantauzzi, Infloor Product Manager at the Maxxon Corporation. A leading American producer of radiant floor heating, the Maxxon Corporation is in Hamel, Minnesota. They developed a state-of-the-art group of products called Infloor® Heating Systems, that are now being installed by some 650 dealers nationwide. This is the way Infloor heating systems work. Hot water tubes or electric cables are attached to the subfloor and covered with a pourable floor underlayment called Therma-Floor®. Water circulating through the tubes or electrical resistance in the cables warms the underlayment and the floor covering. The floors never become hot, just pleasantly warm. Floor temperature is thermostatically controlled through a heat sensor inside the Therma-Floor or through an air sensor. The concept can be adapted to any type of home. The hot water version can be connected to a boiler, water heater, heat pump, solar collector; basically any existing source of hot water. The electric version is equally adaptable. Increasingly, people are turning to radiant floor heating, both in the construction of new homes and when renovating and updating old ones. Proponents of radiant floor heating -- and people who have switched from a standard heating system to a radiant floor heating system speak with a missionary zeal about their warm floors -- point out several advantages to the new heating systems. An Infloor heating system transfers heat directly; it doesn't waste energy trying to warm tremendous volumes of air, as in a forced-air system. There are no drafts or hot-air surges; heating throughout the home is uniform, with very little temperature difference between the floor and the ceiling. Utility bills for a home heated by radiant floor heating have a potential savings of up to 40% less than the identical home using a forced air furnace. Because heat doesn't collect at the ceiling where it is most likely to escape, radiant floor heating can also reduce heat loss by up to 30%. So even though your thermostat is set lower than it would be with a forced air system, you feel warmer. There are no registers or cold-air returns to circulate dust or allergens, and as homeowners and home buyers are becoming increasingly health conscious, this feature will probably become more important. Designers usually prefer to design homes heated with radiant floor heating because there are no ugly baseboards, no awkward radiators and no unsightly registers: nothing to interfere with interior furnishings or design concepts. Though radiant floor heating is not a new invention, it is just beginning to catch on in the United States, with Minnesota, Colorado, New Mexico, Utah and Northern California in the lead. Radiant floor heating is well-entrenched in Europe, where an estimated 60% of existing homes, and up to 90% of new homes are heated through the floor. John Fantauzzi explains that "Europeans build their homes for the long haul. They expect their homes to be handed down from generation to generation, so when they build, they build for the future. They are willing to invest more upfront, for high quality systems that will last. In America, we tend to build houses we plan to live in for three or four years." Asked why Americans have been slower to switch from forced air heating systems to radiant floor heating, sources in the housing industry invariably cite cost. The cost of installing radiant floor heating might cost two or three times more than a forced air system, initially. "And, 'initially' is the key word here," says Fantauzzi. "People who are building and buying new homes need to remember that in the long run, their heating bills will be up to 40% lower than they would be with forced air. The other issue is quality. We believe that people will pay more for the added advantages of radiant floor heating: health, aesthetics, and more importantly, comfort. Just as people will pay more for a top-notch car that runs beautifully and lasts, over a cheap, inefficient one that constantly has to be repaired, they will pay more at the outset for radiant heating when they realize how comfortable it is." One of the central reasons Americans have been slow to change over to radiant floor heating is that they have not been told about it, or, if they have heard about it, they have not experienced it. "Homeowners don't know how uncomfortable they are in a forced air heating system until they have experienced radiant floor heating," says Fantauzzi. One way to try the comfort of Infloor is with a Warm Floor Kit. Infloor has a kit with everything a do-it-yourselfer (or contractor) needs to make floors barefoot warm. 120v electric cables attach quickly to wooden subfloors. The cables warm the Therma-Floor or mortar and floor coverings. Available in three sizes, the kits can be installed in bathrooms, kitchens, entryways or anywhere comfort is a priority. Clyde Jorgenson, President of the Maxxon Corporation says, "There is a quiet revolution going on in this country. We see evidence of it every day, in the letters, phone calls, and orders we get from around the country. Americans are definitely changing the way they heat their homes." For more information, contact: Marketing Services Department, Maxxon Corporation, 920 Hamel Road, Hamel, Minnesota 55340. Phone: (800) 588-4470 For even more information contact: Barbara Saxton (612) 478-9600











written in part by Stuart Perry, former NEED student from Rhode Island People have observed the cycles of the sun for centuries and used that knowledge to heat, light, and even cool their buildings. But it was the oil embargoes of the 1970s that really started the country thinking about ways to reduce the energy needs of homes and other buildings. On average, 70 percent of buildings' energy costs are for heating, cooling, and lighting. How could we use less energy and less fuel-by designing buildings that maximize the sun's energy ? Many researchers focused on designing buildings that use the sun naturally - or passively - without installing special equipment. Others incorporated solar panels in their designs to heat water and generate electricity. The early solar buildings did save energy, though they were too futuristic-looking for many people and not very cost-effective. The last twenty years, however, have brought innovations in window construction, insulation, and design that are making people take a second look. In passive solar design, the idea is to collect light and heat energy from the sun during the day - maintaining a comfortable temperature inside and release the heat at night as temperatures drop. Think about climbing into a car on a sunny day, even when it's cool 'outside. It can be pretty hot in there, can't it ? Sunlight enters through the windows and is converted to heat when it hits the interior. The same windows that let in the light energy keep the heat from escaping. Passive solar - or climate responsive buildings are designed to take advantage of the sun's energy. Buildings are oriented with long, south-facing walls with many windows. Fewer windows are placed on north-facing walls. In addition, heavy floors and walls provide thermal mass to collect the heat, and advanced window systems prevent the heat from escaping, at night. Good insulation in the walls and ceiling, and weatherstripping around cracks, are necessary to prevent heat loss in winter and to keep it out in the summer. The design and placement of doors is also important. Even the outdoor landscaping can make a building more energy-efficient. With well-placed windows, the need for artificial lighting can be significantly reduced. Studies have shown that students perform better on tests when their classrooms have natural lighting and workers are more productive in solar office buildings. People also say that the heat in solar buildings is more comfortable than artificial heating. Even older, traditional buildings use the sun s energy to some extent. Most buildings have windows that make use of sunlight to reduce the need for artificial lighting. And about five percent of a traditional building's heat comes from the sun. These older buildings can be adapted in many ways to maximize the sun's energy. Installing- heavy, insulating shades on south facing walls is one way - and making sure that they're open during the day and closed at night in the winter. Adding an overhang to south facing windows can also make a big difference, since the sun's rays are more directly overhead in the summer and angled in the winter. Another good idea is to plant deciduous trees near the windows. In the summer, the leaves shade the building from unwanted heat, while in winter the sunlight penetrates the bare branches to reach the windows. And, of course, increasing insulation and installing energy-efficient windows and doors always makes sense. Every new structure built today should take advantage of the energy savings of passive solar design. Mary-Margaret Jenior, an expert on passive solar buildings at the Department of Energy, reports that new solar buildings in any climate in the U.S. can capture 40 - 90 percent of the energy they need for lighting, heating, and cooling. Researchers at DOE's National Renewable Energy Lab are designing building plans that use solar energy for 75 percent of their energy needs, without adding appreciably to the overall construction costs. One of the most important developments in passive solar technology is the computer. With the help of an industry-government collaborative, the Passive Solar Industries Council has developed a software program that calculates the optimum design for a building, taking, into account the climate of the site and the materials and design strategies to be used. A similar program assists in integrating auxiliary energy systems in the buildings. Adding- equipment such as photovoltaics is also advocated by many solar experts, now that the cost. efficiency, and reliability of PV cells has improved. Photovoltaics and active water heating systems can provide additional energy savings, but the cost may still seem prohibitive to many people. Many researchers think that in the future, a well-designed solar building with occupants committed to conserving energy could harness all the energy it needs from the sun. "Maybe," says Mary-Margaret Jenior, "NEED students will say to themselves, 'my building could become the utility of the future!"' Web sites for more information: http://www.psic.org http://www.nrel.gov/buildings/exemplary http://www.eren.doe.gov http://www.ases.org/solar Suggested Activities: 1. Call your local builders association and ask if there are new solar buildings in your area and if any local builders are specializing in solar design. Take a field trip to one or more of the buildings. Ask a knowledgeable builder to speak to your classes. 2. Have groups of students design and build mock-ups of "the perfect solar home", incorporating the unique climate, materials, and energy sources available in your area.

The recently completed environmentally friendly "exemplary home" at Grand Canyon National Park is the result of almost 20 years of buildings research. Designed by engineers of the National Renewable Energy Laboratory in conjunction with park service personnel, the home combines energy efficiency with state-of-the-art passive solar technology to achieve a 75 percent reduction in energy use compared with a conventional home. "The occupants say they're very satisfied with the home's performance," said Todd Alexander, project manager for the National Park Service. 'Utility bills averaged about $100 a month in December, January, and February. Some of the other new homes nearby paid as much as $300 per month depending on the number of occupants and their lifestyle." The exemplary home features glazed Trombe wall that captures and stores the sun's heat for slow, even release at night. On hot summer days, the Trombe wall keeps the home comfortably cool by intercepting the sun's heat. Clerestory windows bring natural daylight into the living space, reducing the need for energy-consuming electric lights. R-50 ceiling insulation, R-34 walls and an insulated concrete pad are part of an ultra-air-tight building envelope that reduces air leakage by 60 percent when compared to conventional construction. A waste heat recovery system captures heat from the ventilation system and uses it to worm the water for laundry, showers and kitchen. "This is an integrated building design - one that considers all aspects of how a building uses energy," explains Paul Torcellini*, head of NREL?s exemplary buildings research program. "Typically, exemplary homes will cost about the same to build as conventional homes. Upfront design costs are a bit higher, but homeowners quickly recover the extra cost through energy savings." Existing passive solar designs reduce home energy use by about 40 percent. Advanced technologies such as those demonstrated at the Grand Canyon have the potential to slash residential heating bills by as much as 95 percent and lighting bills by 80 percent. This article first appeared in the July/August 1997 issue of Solar Today, a publication of the American Solar Energy Society, and is reprinted with permission of ASES and the writer, Linda Brown, a freelance writer in Colorado, who can be reached at (303) 838-1573. *Paul Torcellini, head of NREL's exemplary buildings research program, is a former NEED student from Connecticut, and serves on NEED's Board of Directors.

When building their own homes, individuals frequently consider buying a sawmill to cut the lumber from their own timbers. In some cases, the expense is easily recouped. In most cases, it is best to seek other means to have lumber cut. One option is to have a local portable sawmill hired to saw at the site from the available timbers; and a second option is to compare this cost to the available beams and lumber available in the area. A sawmill will cost about $20,000, the maintenance is expensive, and generally a low return on the investment can be expected. How to Choose Logs for Your Timberframe When buying or cutting logs for a timber frame, it is very important to choose the ones most suitable for high-quality beams. Here are a few tips: Never use logs that have a bow in them if you can avoid it. Bowed logs make bowed beams even if they are cut straight. Do not choose logs with large knots. Large knots weaken the beam. Do not choose logs that have been cut a long time ago. Pine logs will have beetle damage. Watch for rot in the butt end of the log. Make sure the diameter of the log is large enough for the beam you want. Remember any bow will reduce the size of the beam that is possible from the log.


What Type of Wood Should be Used? The best choice of wood is based on several factors. The four most popular in the U.S. are White Pine, Douglas Fir, Oak and Yellow Pine. Personally, I think it is best to use the wood available to the timberframer you choose,. As for the "best" wood to choose, each has its particular qualities. For instance, White Pine is the most stable and Oak is the strongest. Should my Beams be Planed or Not? Determining whether to build your timber frame home of planed or unplaned beams is only a matter of taste. The planed timbers will come out with a very finished look. High end shops such as Thistlewood or the Upper Loft are well suited to build planed timber frames. The unplaned frame is a more rustic look. The joinery in an unplaned frame is never as exact as a planed frame. A company such as Cowee Mountain Timberframers prefers unplaned frames because they are more suitable for apprentice work as well as student workshops. As for strength, remember that unplaned frames have been around for over one thousand years. Once again, it is only a matter of taste. Buying Beams One important factor which will affect your timber frame is the quality of the beams you buy from the sawmill. Check for the following: What is the quality of the wood in the beam? Avoid large knots, wane on the edges and worm holes. How square are the timbers? Always take a carpenter square when you buy timbers. Use your discretion with selecting square beams. How old are the timbers? Old timbers that have been weathered may appear grey and very unattractive. How straight are the timbers? Bowed timbers do not fit or square up in the pretrial assembly process.

Caring for your beams

Alternative Building Methods

Design

* Smaller is better: Optimize use of interior space through careful design so that the overall building size--and resource use in constructing and operating it--are kept to a minimum.

* Design an energy-efficient building: Use high levels of insulation, high-performance windows, and tight construction. In southern climates, choose glazings with low solar heat gain.

* Design buildings to use renewable energy: Passive solar heating, daylighting, and natural cooling can be incorporated cost-effectively into most buildings. Also consider solar water heating and photovoltaics--or design buildings for future solar installations.

* Optimize material use: Minimize waste by designing for standard ceiling heights and building dimensions. Avoid waste from structural over-design (use optimum-value engineering/advanced framing). Simplify building geometry.

* Design water-efficient, low-maintenance landscaping: Conventional lawns have a high impact because of water use, pesticide use, and pollution generated from mowing. Landscape with drought-resistant native plants and perennial groundcovers.

* Make it easy for occupants to recycle waste: Make provisions for storage and processing of recyclables: recycling bins near the kitchen, undersink compost receptacles, and the like.

* Look into the feasibility of graywater: Water from sinks, showers, or clothes washers (graywater) can be recycled for irrigation in some areas. If current codes prevent graywater recycling, consider designing the plumbing for easy future adaptation.

* Design for durability: To spread the environmental impacts of building over as long a period as possible, the structure must be durable. A building with a durable style ("timeless architecture") will be more likely to realize a long life.

* Design for future reuse and adaptability: Make the structure adaptable to other uses, and choose materials and components that can be reused or recycled.

* Avoid potential health hazards: radon, mold, pesticides: Follow recommended practices to minimize radon entry into the building and provide for future mitigation if necessary. Provide detailing that will avoid moisture problems, which could cause mold and mildew growth. Design insect-resistant detailing that will require minimal use of pesticides.

Siting & Land Use

* Renovate older buildings: Conscientiously renovating existing buildings is the most sustainable construction.

* Create community: Development patterns can either inhibit or contribute to the establishment of strong communities and neighborhoods. Creation of cohesive communities should be a high priority.

* Encourage in-fill and mixed-use development: In-fill development that increases density is inherently better than building on undeveloped (greenfield) sites. Mixed-use development, in which residential and commercial uses are intermingled, can reduce automobile use and help to create healthy communities.

* Minimize automobile dependence: Locate buildings to provide access to public transportation, bicycle paths, and walking access to basic services. Commuting can also be reduced by working at home--consider home office needs with layout and wiring.

* Value site resources: Early in the siting process carry out a careful site evaluation: solar access, soils, vegetation, water resources, important natural areas, etc., and let this information guide the design.
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* Locate buildings to minimize environmental impact: Cluster buildings or build attached units to preserve open space and wildlife habitats, avoid especially sensitive areas including wetlands, and keep roads and service lines short. Leave the most pristine areas untouched, and look for areas that have been previously damaged to build on. Seek to restore damaged ecosystems.

* Provide responsible on-site water management: Design landscapes to absorb rainwater runoff (stormwater) rather than having to carry it off-site in storm sewers. In arid areas, rooftop water catchment systems should be considered for collecting rainwater and using it for landscape irrigation.

* Situate buildings to benefit from existing vegetation: Trees on the east and west sides of a building can dramatically reduce cooling loads. Hedge rows and shrubbery can block cold winter winds or help channel cool summer breezes into buildings.

Materials

* Avoid ozone-depleting chemicals in mechanical equipment and insulation: CFCs have been phased out, but their primary replacements--HCFCs--also damage the ozone layer and should be avoided where possible. Avoid foam insulation made with HCFCs. Reclaim CFCs when servicing or disposing of equipment.

* Use durable products and materials: Because manufacturing is very energy-intensive, a product that lasts longer or requires less maintenance usually saves energy. Durable products also contribute less to our solid waste problems.

* Choose low-maintenance building materials: Where possible, select building materials that will require little maintenance (painting, retreatment, waterproofing, etc.), or whose maintenance will have minimal environmental impact.

* Choose building materials with low embodied energy: Heavily processed or manufactured products and materials are usually more energy intensive. As long as durability and performance will not be sacrificed, choose low-embodied-energy materials.

* Buy locally produced building materials: Transportation is costly in both energy use and pollution generation. Look for locally produced materials. Local hardwoods, for example, are preferable to tropical woods.

* Use building products made from recycled materials: Building products made from recycled materials reduce solid waste problems, cut energy consumption in manufacturing, and save on natural resource use. A few examples of materials with recycled content are cellulose insulation, Homosotereg., Thermo-plyreg., floor tile made from ground glass, and recycled plastic lumber.

* Use salvaged building materials when possible: Reduce landfill pressure and save natural resources by using salvaged materials: lumber, millwork, certain plumbing fixtures, and hardware, for example. Make sure these materials are safe (test for lead paint and asbestos), and don't sacrifice energy efficiency or water efficiency by reusing old windows or toilets.

* Seek responsible wood supplies: Use lumber from independently certified well-managed forests. Avoid lumber products produced from old-growth timber unless they are certified. Engineered wood can be substituted for old-growth Douglas fir, for example. Don't buy tropical hardwoods unless the seller can document that the wood comes from well-managed forests.

* Avoid materials that will give off gas pollutants: Solvent-based finishes, adhesives, carpeting, particleboard, and many other building products release formaldehyde and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air. These chemicals can affect workers' and occupants' health as well as contribute to smog and ground-level ozone pollution outside.

* Minimize use of pressure-treated lumber: Use detailing that will prevent soil contact and rot. Where possible, use alternatives such as recycled plastic lumber. Take measures to protect workers when cutting and handling pressure-treated wood. Scraps should never be incinerated.

* Minimize packaging waste: Avoid excessive packaging, such as plastic-wrapped plumbing fixtures or fasteners that aren't available in bulk. Tell your supplier why you are avoiding over-packaged products. Keep in mind, however, that some products must be carefully packaged to prevent damage--and resulting waste.

Equipment

* Install high-efficiency heating and cooling equipment: Well-designed high-efficiency furnaces, boilers, and air conditioners (and distribution systems) not only save the building occupants money, but also produce less pollution during operation. Install equipment with minimal risk of combustion gas spillage, such as sealed-combustion appliances.

* Install high-efficiency lights and appliances: Fluorescent lighting has improved dramatically in recent years and is now suitable for homes. High-efficiency appliances offer both economic and environmental advantages over their conventional counterparts.

* Install water-efficient equipment: Water-conserving toilets, showerheads, and faucet aerators not only reduce water use, they also reduce demand on septic systems or sewage treatment plants. Reducing hot water use also saves energy.

* Install mechanical ventilation equipment: Mechanical ventilation is usually required to ensure safe, healthy indoor air. Heat recovery ventilators should be considered in cold climates because of energy savings, but simpler, less expensive exhaust-only ventilation systems are also adequate.

Job Site & Business

* Protect trees and topsoil during sitework: Protect trees from damage during construction by fencing off the "drip line" around them and avoiding major changes to surface grade.

* Avoid use of pesticides and other chemicals that may leach into the groundwater: Look into less toxic termite treatments, and keep exposed frost walls free from obstructions to discourage insects. When backfilling a foundation or grading around a house, do not bury any construction debris.

* Minimize job-site waste: Centralize cutting operations to reduce waste and simplify sorting. Set up clearly marked bins for different types of usable waste (wood scraps for kindling, sawdust for compost, etc.). Find out where different materials can be taken for recycling, and educate your crew about recycling procedures. Donate salvaged materials to low-income housing projects, theater groups, etc.

* Make your business operations more environmentally responsible: Make your office as energy efficient as possible, purchase energy-efficient vehicles, arrange carpools to job sites, and schedule site visits and errands to minimize unnecessary driving. In your office, purchase recycled office paper and supplies, recycle office paper, use coffee mugs instead of disposable cups. On the job, recycle beverage containers.

* Make education a part of your daily practice: Use the design and construction process to educate clients, employees, subcontractors, and the general public about environmental impacts of buildings and how these impacts can be minimized.

Faswall System transforms Waste Wood into versatile Building Material

by: Ken Roseboro

A Swiss architect adapted an effective European building technology to the U.S. and is helping to solve the growing problem of waste wood. Hans Walter, founder of K-X Industries, opened a manufacturing facility in Arkansas to transform waste wood into Faswall®, a durable, energy-efficient, cost-effective, and environmentally sound building material.

Patented process produces Faswall blocks Faswall blocks are manufactured at two facilities in Little Rock. At the 20,000 square foot K-X Aggregate plant, recycled wood chips are mixed with mineral solutions in a patented process. The minerals seal the chips to make them resistant to rot, decay and mildew. Next, Portland cement is mixed with the K-X® Aggregate, and a casting machine molds the mixture into blocks. The Faswall blocks cure for three weeks, then the top of the blocks is trimmed for a precise, smooth edge. The finished Faswall blocks are 16 inches long, 11 1/2 inches wide, and 8 inches high, about the same size as standard concrete blocks. Because the blocks contain 85% wood fiber, they weigh less than one-half as much as concrete blocks. They can also be sawed, nailed, glued, and worked with standard carpenter's tools. To build a structure, the Faswall blocks are stacked dry without mortar joints to create a wall. Steel re-bar is set horizontally and vertically within the stacked blocks and concrete is poured in them. This creates an interlocking "post and beam" grid effect, which makes the wall exceptionally strong. Plaster can be applied over a Faswall wallform and sheetrock can be screwed or nailed to it. On the outside, stucco adheres to Faswall, while brick, veneer, siding, and drywall can be anchored to the forms.

Robert LaPorte, owner of Econnest and timber frame builder in Santa Fe, New Mexico, often uses Faswall for foundation stem walls on timber frame homes. This takes the footing out of the ground and above the moisture line. He says the height can range anywhere from one to eight-feet, depending on snow height and slope of the ground. LaPorte says Faswall is superior to concrete block because it is easy to handle, cuts easily, and can be applied directly to plaster. Also, the blocks are self-insulating. "I really like it," LaPorte says. "It is a good environmentally sound product, and it requires less labor to complete than a finished concrete wall." LaPorte says Faswall can also be an effective alternative to stress skin panels as a wall enclosure. LaPorte recommends wrapping a timber frame house with Faswall, so the timbers aren't visible on the outside. He says Faswall provides both insulation and mass that stores heat, while stress skin panels only insulate. A Faswall wall is also more aesthetic. "You can create deep window wells and window seats," LaPorte says. "Also a thick wall is very comforting; there's a timeless quality to it."

Energy-efficient, strong, and environmentally sound The Faswall building system offers many advantages for timber framers. Walter says Faswall reduces construction time by 20% and cost by 5%. A Faswall building can be constructed much faster because the forms weigh much less than concrete and require no mortar. A completed Faswall form filled with concrete provides insulating values from R-18 to 24. A 21,000 square foot Faswall structure in Iowa City, Iowa, has winter heating bills of about $300 per month, the amount many homeowners pay. Because of its strength, a Faswall structure can withstand hurricane winds and earthquakes. Faswall resists rot, mildew, vermin, and has a fire resistance rating of over 4 hours. Thaw and freeze tests show that Faswall performs better than concrete because of the capillary action of the wood fibers. Faswall blocks can be manufactured using existing concrete block equipment.

Faswall blocks are non-toxic. The porous composition of the blocks allows a slow interchange of air, producing a "breathing" wall effect. This prevents heat from escaping in winter, keeps cool air inside during summer, helps maintain good air quality, and reduces the possibility of sick building syndrome.

George Swanson, a Texas architect, has designed some 80 Faswall buildings in Iowa and Texas. These include 40 in the Austin area. He cites the breathable quality of Faswall as a main benefit. "Many homes and buildings constructed today have poor air quality because they're sealed so tight," Swanson says. "With Faswall, the entire wall acts as a fresh air exchanger to create good air quality and a healthier building."

One of Hans Walter's main goals was to create a building system that preserves the environment. Faswall blocks are made of recycled wood, and a Faswall building requires much less lumber, which helps conserve forests. Faswall also reduces the burden on landfills. Walter estimates that 9.6 million tons of wood waste will be created in the U.S. this year and half of it will be burned, dumped, or buried in landfills. According to Walter, just 1.6 million tons of waste wood could produce enough Faswall blocks to build nearly 300,000, 1800 square foot homes.

Based on straw and clay technique Faswall is based on a building technique that has been used in Europe for hundreds of years, according to George Swanson. The original technique used a mixture of straw and clay. This evolved into the wood-concrete wallform system, which has been popular in Europe for the last 60 years. Hans Walter became an expert in the system and built homes for over 30 years using the technology.

Walter founded Insul Holz-Beton International, Inc., in 1987 to introduce the system to the United States. "Insul Holz-Beton" means insulating wood-concrete in German. The company is based in Windsor, South Carolina. K-X Industries is a wholly owned subsidiary of Insul Holz-Beton, International, Inc. It took Walter six years to develop the K-X process, which he patented in 1992. Insul Holz-Beton licensed the K-X process to a Midwest company in 1994. Since then, Faswall has been used to construct over 300 homes and a variety of commercial buildings nationwide.

Growing demand seen for Faswall K-X Industries ships Faswall blocks all over the U.S. from its Little Rock plants. Hans Walter plans to expand production and is speaking with concrete block manufacturers nationwide about producing Faswall blocks. He says this plan will make Faswall available regionally by the end of 1999. For more information about Faswall, call Insul-Holz Beton at 800-491-7891.

Enclosing your Timber Frame

Attaching the panels to a timber frame or log home is quite simple...Panels are lifted into place and attached to the frame by long spikes or screws. Splines are screwed into spline grooves and the next panel is pushed into place. After the panels are screwed in, the window and door openings are cut.

Timber Frame Enclosure

By: Butch Johnson

If you are building a timber frame home or are considering building one, you should consider your choices for enclosing the frame once it's complete.

A timber frame home makes a statement about your identity that conventional buildings don't make. You have opted to spend more per square foot than conventional construction would have cost. You have decided to make the structure of your home not only visible, but fully displayed. You have decided to build one of the strongest, longest-lasting structures that can be built.

Often, the professional that erects the timber frame is only interested in getting the frame and the general contractor is not as familiar with options for the next phase of construction, enclosure, as you would like him to be. The timbers that you paid so much for are out in the weather, and panic sets in about how to get them covered before the sealing process gets too cumbersome.

There are basically three choices for enclosure:

Stick frame
Wrap and strap
Panels

Generally contractors will only be familiar with stick frame as an enclosure option. In stick frame enclosures, the walls are built as if the timberframe were just another stud. The walls are built with studs between the posts or bents and the timberframe holds up the roof. There are three problems with this method:

The timberframe has already used enough first growth timber for one house, studs are excessive, especially since they are not necessary to hold up the roof
Conventional construction is energy inefficient
It takes too long to build the structure twice, which is what you're doing if you use conventional stick frame for the enclosure

Many timber framers use a system called wrap and strap, which is a better system that stick frame in that it uses less lumber and is more energy efficient, but it is also time-consuming and costly. Most contractors are not familiar with the process, so the timber framer must build the wrap and strap enclosure (usually against his will) and you end up paying artisan wages for basic construction to get the enclosure built. If rigid foam is not used as the insulation material, the energy efficiency of the structure is only slightly better than stick frame and if rigid foam is used, there are enough gaps between foam and wrap and strap materials to allow air spaces which can cause problems over time.

More and more timber framers are recommending the use of enclosure panels to finish the enclosure. Panels are made by laminating rigid foam to osb and other building materials to form a sandwich panel. Various panels used are structural insulated panels (engineered with osb on both sides-when roof or floor spans are over 12'), stress skin panels (also osb on both sides but not engineered-for spans up to 12'), osb /gyp panels (spans of 16" to 48"), and nailbase panels (osb on one side only- used over structural decks like T&G ceilings) for insulation and a nailing surface. Other specialty panels are also available. Panels come in sizes from 4' by 8' by 4" thick up 8' by 24' by 121/4" thick.

Panels have a number of advantages over other enclosure methods:

They're faster to install
They do not use lumber (osb splines are used to connect them to each other and the structure handles the roof load)
They're stronger in shear and racking than stick frame or wrap and strap
Often panels are less expensive as an enclosure due to reduced labor
They are the most-energy efficient alternative available.

Often energy bills can be reduced 40% or more by switching to panel enclosures. Many homeowners also report significant noise and draft reduction as well as less heat convection in panel enclosed home.

Structural Insulated Panels (SIPS) are an excellent option for hybrid timber frame homes, homes where part of the structure is timber frame and part is not. Often timber framers and contractors are unaware of this option, so it may be wise to bring it up.

There are a number of panel manufacturers throughout the country. Keywords for your search engine include Structural Insulted Panels, Stress Skin Panels, and Building.

About the author: Butch Johnson is the Panel Marketing Director for Perma R Products in Johnson City, Tennessee. He is an avowed "Panelhead" and enthusiastically endorses stress skin and structural insulated panels in residential construction.

Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)

Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs) are made of Expanded Polystyrene (EPS), or urethane, foam sandwiched between exterior layers of Oriented Strand Board (OSB), plywood, or other structural material, and adhered under pressure with a structural adhesive. The panels are engineered for construction use and come in sizes ranging from 4' by 8' by 4" thick to 8' by 24' by 12" thick. Their strength is based upon the same physics principles as the "I" Beam and they can be used to build walls, roofs, and floors significantly stronger than conventional construction techniques. They also have better insulation per inch of thickness than Fiberglass and better insulation at lower temperatures and higher humidity than Fiberglass for decreased energy usage for heating. As a result, the U.S Department of Energy and Environmental Protection Agency (see EPA/DOE Energy Star program) are both proponents of the use of SIPs in construction.

SIPs offer a superior alternative to stick-framing or concrete block structures because they provide for more strength and flexibility and are more energy efficient. SIPs also reduce construction time and costs since they can be assembled easily and quickly. In this discussion structural insulated building panels may also be referred to as SIPS, building panels, or sandwich panels.

The panels are used in residential and commercial buildings for walls, floors and roofs, and they come in a variety of thicknesses, widths and lengths. The two continuous structural faces provide the panels with the necessary strength to take axial loads, out-of-plane bending, shear loads, and in-plane shear loads. Typical roof spans are in the 12' to 22' range (depending upon osb and foam thickness) and floor spans are in the 8' to 16' range.

Panels are fastened together with wood or osb splines and zinc galvanized screws or ring shank spikes. Dimensional lumber (2 x) is used for top and bottom plates and for headers and sills. Panels are typically rated as header material up to 4'. Once a foundation is completed, a panelized shell structure can be completed in a matter of days. One erection contractor quotes 3 days of erection time per 1,000 square feet of building. Because panels can be assembled easily and quickly, less material is wasted, and construction costs are lowered. A typical 1,600 square foot home takes three to five days to assemble, including floor, walls, and roof.

Furthermore, panels can be manufactured with exterior sidings such as T1-11 structurally bonded to the foam core. This means it is not necessary to side the building, thus saving time and money. Additionally, since the insulation is bonded to the sheathing there is no shrinkage of materials saving time and money. Testing is underway to allow a structural gypsum product as cladding for one side, which would create a nearly finished panel.

SIPs utilize a thick core of Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) which creates high R-Values and low U-Values (R-Value = measure of the resistance of a building component to the passage of heat. U-Value = the coefficient of heat transfer). Foam construction eliminates the voids common with Fiberglass insulation. For these reasons, air temperature and quality are easily controlled, which allows heating and air conditioning costs to be drastically reduced. Audits have proven that money is saved year after year in these super-insulated, airtight structures. EPS is also recyclable, where most other foams and insulation products are not.

It is also important to note that the skins of SIPs are made of Oriented Strand Board (OSB), which is made with new growth "junk" wood (Aspen, jack pine, etc.) which can be regenerated in five to ten years rather than old growth lumber such as redwood, ponderosa pine or yellow pine, which are necessary in stick-frame construction. The panels use one-fourth as much wood as stick-framing methods. The EPS is manufactured without the use or production of CFCs or HCFCs. Since the insulation is bonded to the sheathing there is no shrinkage of materials saving time and money.

Buildings using SIPs are stronger than traditionally built structures. They can withstand winds in excess of 160 mph, ground movement, seismic torsional forces, freeze and thaw movement, and seismic class 4 standards. Residents report less creaking and overall noises associated with standard systems, as well as reduced draftiness, and reduction of sound transmission through the walls. Molds, mildews, and dust are reduced. Typical maintenance, such as painting and roof repairs decrease due to reduced thermal joint expansion.

Panel buildings are more fire resistant than stick-frame buildings because there are no air cavities in the walls to create a "chimney effect." The UBC-17-5 (15 minute) corner burn test has been passed by most manufacturers, and this is an industry standard.

The highly streamlined on-site construction process allows flexibility to build in any area in any season, compared to other construction techniques which are weather-sensitive. Panels are particularly economical for simple residential and commercial building designs. Walls are more stable than stick-frame construction.

The technology for structural insulated building panels has developed over the last 50 years. Recent political and economic issues have caused panel systems to become competitive with traditional construction methods. Specifically, rising lumber prices, and the fluctuating quality and availability of lumber has increased the economic advantage of panelized structures. In addition, as energy costs rise, state and federal agencies are raising the minimum standards for energy efficient structures. These trends will continue to increase the economic attraction of panel systems, for these panels produce well-built, strong buildings that can be constructed quickly, easily, and cost effectively. Production of osb is expected to increase to 18 - 20 times it's current production level, and prices are expected to fall by as much as 50%. This could reduce panel prices by as much as 20% over the next two years.

Panel shipping is only economical within a 300- 500 mile radius, although due to limited manufacturing production availability most manufacturers indicate that 30% or more of their business is shipped 1,000 or more miles away.

Structural panels typically bear a stamp indicating compliance with building standards and requirements. This stamp is authorized by a licensed structural engineer and will be backed up by regular third party inspections and in random factory testing. Plans of projects are usually stamped by a licensed structural engineer showing that the type and size of panels, their placement and layout, the size and location of beams, foundations and all other structural components are done pursuant to local building codes and standards.

The industry trade association is the Structural Insulated Panel Association at 1511 K Street NW, Washington, DC 20005 (202) 347-7800 or by e-mail at sipa@aecnet.com. If you would like more information, my name is Butch Johnson, and I can be reached at (800) 251-7532 or by e-mail at sip@xtn.net. My company, Perma R Products, Inc. is located in Johnson City, Tennessee. Please visit the Perma "R" Products, Inc. web page at www.sipsproducts.com for pictures and construction details. SIPA has a web page at www.natraweb.com/keeper/sipa/. I will gladly share information regarding Structural Insulated Panels and sources throughout the U.S and Canada.

Alternative to Stress Skin Panels (Studded Walls)

Although timber frame enclosure with stress skin panels is very popular, there is also the alternative of building a studded wall on the exterior of the timber frame structure. This is a favorable choice if you are constructing your timber frame home on a tight budget, have access to inexpensive lumber or own a sawmill.

Constructing a studded wall on the exterior of your timber frame building should be done using 2 x 6 studs in the same manner that a conventional wall is built. There is one difference, however. That is the wall is not a load bearing (i.e. weight bearing) wall. The exterior structure need only support the siding, interior wall and windows.

After completing your studded wall system, you may proceed with the plumbing, electrical work, insulation, siding, etc. in the same way a traditional home is done.

Strawbale: Then and Now

by Mitchel Sorin, A. I. A.

Historically, cultures around the globe have used natural and indigenous materials such as grass, mud, bamboo, and among others, yes, STRAW, to build durable, comfortable, inspiring shelters that have stood and continue to stand as testimony to the virtues of these materials and way of building. We look at these simple, yet elegant structures and feel something we cannot name: we feel a link to our ancestral past that stirs our consciousness and a sense of being that feels so real, yet remains elusive and mysterious. Why are we so moved? What is it about these structures that touches us so and why is this something to consider in today's culture?

Today, there is a growing need to find meaningful ways to re-connect and live in harmony with nature, rather than continue to resist its elemental forces. This is how our ancestors lived and it reveals one aspect of our human nature--that is, our desire to feel a sense of belonging to the world in which we live. How invigorating it is to our well-being when we go to nature to renew our sense of spirit. This is a familiar experience for most of us. And when we build with straw, a natural material of the earth, and surround ourselves in shelter made with this vital, living material, we can experience a similar sense of renewal. Through the memories and the inner psychic connections we form about this material within our consciousness, this material takes on a life and spirit of its own, a symbolic meaning, and it is this meaning and spirit that stirs our soul and reminds us of our essence and of our intrinsic link to nature.

In addition, not only do the inherent, natural qualities of the material contribute to our sense of connection and belonging, but in building with straw, we also have an opportunity to mold the material with our own hands--to embed textures, shapes, colors, and the feelings we hold in our consciousness into the forms we create, as our ancestral builders did, conveying a sense of our own individuality and expression in context with the larger natural order. And with our hands, we come to know the physical potential and limitations of the material as we learn what the straw will do and not do for us. Through these experiences we are reminded of the inherent forces and qualities of nature that we must continuously adapt to and harmonize with in order to sustain our spirit and the web of life. Thus, in some small way, building with straw is a means to rekindle that sense our ancestors knew long ago--an intuitive and innate sense we know about, but have nearly forgotten through the ages: that is, to build in harmony with our land and our surroundings with elements of nature and to impart a piece of who we are in the process gives meaning to our shelters and dwellings and a profound meaning to our lives. Building with straw presents an opportunity to build in a way that inspires us, touches our human spirit, and sustains our physical, emotional and spiritual well-being. For this reason alone, building with straw represents a great opportunity that we should never lose sight of.

How to Use It:

Simply put, stack them up like big blocks and pin them together and you have a wall. Well, there's a little bit more involved than that, but basically, there are two methods for using straw bales.

Nebraska Style: where the straw bales are used as a structural, load-bearing wall and designed to take the structural loading of the roof as well as resist the lateral wind loads exerted on the wall without any other means of structural support or framing other than the straw wall.
Infill Style: where the straw bales are used as non-structural, non load-bearing infill walls in conjunction with a separate structural framework, typically of wood, such as timber frame or post and beam construction.

Why Use Straw?

Energy efficiency: a typical straw bale wall will provide approximately R-40 thermal insulation value.
Affordability: costs per bale per region vary. In Western North Carolina the cost seems to be in the range of $3-$3.50 per bale. (Check your region for local costs)
Environmental: building with straw recycles an unwanted waste product that is usually burned off in the fields.
Simple to work with: no special skills are required; however, it is generally advisable to have someone in the construction crew that is familiar with construction techniques to oversee and instruct the work crew.
Empowering: building with straw allows one to reconnect with the building process, build their own shelter, and rekindle our sense of how to build in harmony with our environment thatgives meaning to our structures and inspires the human spirit.
Builds community: when a group comes together to erect a straw bale wall, it is a powerful and profound experience that inspires and strengthens our sense of belonging.
Sustainability: straw is a natural product that replenishes quite rapidly and can continually replace itself in the market place.
Strength and durability: initial testing for compression and lateral loading indicates straw bale walls to be quite strong and elastic, allowing the wall to return to its original shape under temporary loading.
Fire resistance: initial testing indicates straw bale walls, once plastered, provide better fire resistance than conventional wood stud wall construction due to elimination of typical air space that allows greater opportunity for combustion to occur.
Seismic resistance: the flexibility and strength of straw bale walls appear to be excellent qualities for seismic design.
Indoor air quality: straw bales inherently let walls "breathe," allowing natural outside air exchanges, reducing tendencies for "sick" building syndrome.

Making Shelter (in spite of the three little pigs)

Recently, there has been a revival in straw bale building--a revival that has espoused the significant virtues of building with straw, whether it be its environmental qualities, energy efficiency, sustainability, or host of others. All of these qualities are significant and noble aspects in their own right, but let's not lose sight of the very real intrinsic quality that I believe draws most of us to straw bale building--that it touches our soul and ignites our human spirit, giving meaning to our lives by allowing our humanity to flourish in the process. Christopher Alexander in his book, A Timeless Way of Building, puts it so eloquently: "There is one timeless way of building. It is thousands of years old, and the same today as it has always been . . . it is a process which allows the life inside a person, or a family, or town, to flourish . . so vividly that it gives birth, of its own accord, to the natural order which is needed to sustain this life." Building with straw is one of these ways, so appropriate today as it was centuries ago to nurture our well-being and sustain the human spirit! This alone is reason enough to continue to build with straw, then as well as now, in spite of the three little pigs!

Mitchel Soren is an architect who lives in Whittier North Carolina and has been involved in several straw bale projects.

Agriboard Panels: A Stress Skin Made of Straw

By: Ken Roseboro

America's amber waves of grain may provide the answer to timber framers' need for a natural, non-toxic stress skin panel. Beginning January 1997, Agriboard Industries, based in Electra, Texas, will manufacture structural insulated panels from agricultural byproducts, such as wheat straw. Agriboard®, the core material of the panels, offers exceptional strength, resists fire, reduces noise, cuts utility bills, costs less than on-site wood frame construction, and helps farmers and the environment.

Intense heat and pressure compress straw into board. Agriboard will be manufactured in a 240-foot long linear extrusion mill, the first mill in the world to produce a 3 1/2-inch thick panel. The mill separates the straw into loose fibers, compresses it under intense 300-degree heat, and fuses it into solid 4-foot wide by 3 1/2-inch thick fiberboard. The mill uses only heat and pressure without chemical binders or toxic substances. The fiberboard is then wrapped in heavy duty Kraft paper and cut to pre-determined lengths. Two fiberboard panels are laminated between 7/16-inch oriented strand board (OSB) to form the Agriboard stress skin panel.

The lamination process protects the fiberboard panel from moisture and the elements when used as an exterior wall system. Vulnerability to moisture was a major drawback to an earlier generation of compressed straw panels. The finished Agriboard panels vary in thickness, depending on the application. Floor, wall, and roof panels will be manufactured in sizes up to nine feet wide, 16 feet long, and eight inches thick. Interior partition panels are made with a single thickness of Agriboard. Interior and exterior finishes such as sheetrock, paneling, brick, and siding can be applied directly to the panels.

Energy-efficient, fire resistant, and strong, agricultural fiber is a natural insulator, comparable in performance to the best insulation materials. Agriboard panels' insulation quality has been tested and rated at R-28.4 for walls and R-39.6 for roof assemblies, which means lower utility bills. Agriboard's high thermal massing provides additional energy efficiency to maintain a more even temperature in houses.

The panels also offer up to a two-hour fire resistance rating. An Agriboard panel resists combustion because of its dense, highly compressed cereal fiber core. When the face of the Agriboard core is exposed to an intense flame, it will char and then self-extinguish.

According to research conducted by the National Association of Home Builders and other groups, the Agriboard panel is stronger and quieter than other panelized housing products. Structural tests have shown Agriboard panels to be two to three times stronger than wood frame construction.

Agriboard benefits the environment and farmers. The panels are made from a renewable, non-toxic agricultural byproduct, thus reducing the need for wood and helping to save forests. Farmers will benefit from the sale of agricultural byproducts they usually discard, including wheat and rice, straw and switch grass. Agriboard Industries estimates it will provide an extra $6 million dollars to Southwest farmers over the next 10 years. This agricultural benefit led the U. S. Department of Agriculture's Alternative Agriculture Research and Commercialization Center to invest $850,000 in Agriboard Industries.

Ken Roseboro is a business writer based in Iowa.

Specialized Tools

Prazi ™ USA

Prazi U.S.A. is a small tool manufacturer, located in Plymouth, Massachusetts, about 5 miles from the Plymouth Rock, where the Pilgrims first settled in America.The tradesmen of the 20th Century are equipped with the most modern of tools, yet many jobs are still performed in the same manner as they were over 200 years ago.

We believe that in today's work place the tradesmen or Do-It-Yourselfer should be equipped with the most "labor and time saving" tools available. The following pages will allow you to review many of PraziTM. U.S.A. "labor and time saving" tools and see why Prazi products have been awarded many of the industry's top innovative awards.

Prazi ™ USA
Monday - Friday 1-800-262-0211 or 1-508-747-1490
FAX: 1-508-746-8655
for information and/or questions, prazi@praziusa.com

Barn Masters, Inc. - your Makita specialty timber framing tool source!

We have been designing and building timber frame structures since 1971. We started using these tools to help create our timber frame structures in 1985 and have been distributing them since then as well. Our crew has extensive experience with these tools from planing rough sawn timbers to cutting compound angle mortises and tenons. These Makita tools have revolutionized the way we have built our fine homes and barns by dramatically reducing the amount of time required for us to perform those "by-hand" cutting and drilling tasks that make timber frames a beautiful work of art.

In addition to having these tools ready for immediate delivery, we also stock replacement parts and accessory bits and blades for your convenience. One of the major advantages of purchasing these tools through Barn Masters, Inc. is the ability to consult with our knowledgeable staff about specific questions you may have regarding the use of these tools.

Barn Masters, Inc. is also a supporter of The Timber Framers Guild of North America. We have displayed these tools at numerous TFG conferences and, whenever possible, donated one of these tools at the conference auction to go towards the fund raising efforts of the Guild. We continue to feel strongly that the Timber Framers Guild of North America is an invaluable source of information and inspiration for timber framers and their projects throughout the world.

We are confident that you will be pleased with the value and operation of these tools. You will also be very satisfied with the time saved and consistent cutting these tools provide.

Please feel free to contact us via our email address on our web site if you have any questions after you review our tool information.

Good luck with your project!

Barn Masters, Inc.
P.O. Box 258
Freeport, ME 04032
(207) 865-4169
(207) 865-6169 (fax)

Finding A Timber Framer

Choosing a Timberframing Company

When selecting a company to timber frame your home, consider price, distance from your location and the type of work the timberframe company chooses to do (i.e. high end or low end). The best of professional craftsmen offer extremely precise work with companies such as Upper Loft or Thistlewood. Apprentice-built timber frames are available at a reasonable cost from Cowee Mountain Timber Frames.

Of course, there will be a great deal of difference in price between the top companies and the apprentice-built frames.

Another major factor in choosing a company is the distance the frame must be shipped. Trucks charge from 1.50 to 2.00 per mile. You will also have to pay the expenses for the crew to come to your site. As this can become very expensive, it is wise to consider an apprentice-built frame as the price may compensate for such costs.

General Timberframing Information

Sources for Traditional Products & Services:

Traditional Building:
"The Professional's Source for Historical Products"

"Traditional Building" is a highly specialized, national trade publication and Website. The Magazine reaches 54,600 architects, contractors, designers, and other building and landscape professionals who specify traditional products. The Magazine's editorial content is devoted to historical products: Where to find them, how to evaluate them, and how to use and install them. Published bimonthly, "Traditional Building" is for professionals involved with both restoration and new-construction projects.

"Traditional Building" has operated its Website since October 1995. Links and product information on more than 300 suppliers are currently indexed on the site. As a result, it has become the portal to traditional-product suppliers on the Web -- the place where building professionals begin their search for products and services for restoration, renovation, and new construction. By mid-1998, the site was attracting over 140,000 hits per month.

Traditional Building Magazine
69A Seventh Avenue,
Brooklyn, NY 11217
Phone (718) 636-0788 Fax
(718) 636-0750
www.traditional-building.com
E-mail htcstaff@traditional-building.com

by Martine Caillon-House There are few things more beautiful than the wooden structure of a timberframe house. The sturdy beams bring a sense of comfort and security as well as esthetic to your home. What better complements that feeling of comfort than quilts or quilted objects placed here and there? Whether the quilts are spread on a bed or the back of a couch, folded on a rack or just hung on the wall, they will contribute greatly to make your home a special place. The great room of your timberframe house is where the beam structure is likely to be apparent and where you will have lots of decorating space. Although you probably won't have a bed in that room to spread a quilt on, there are still many ways you can use quilts as decorating accents. Fold a quilt on the back of your couch. You can see the colors, feel the softness of the fabric and when you sit down at the end of a long day, the quilt is right there to wrap yourself. Choose a new quilt rather than an antique one for this purpose. Handling and folding will damage the aged fabrics of an old quilt. However, if you like the look of an antique quilt, you can find reproductions from many different periods and styles on the market. You are sure to find one that will complement the style of your decor. You can also put a quilt rack at a strategic place in the room so that the quilt folded on it will be well in sight. You can display an older quilt this way because it will be less handled that on the back of a sofa. However, just remember every few months to unfold it, and refold it in a different way. There are three reasons for that: The exposed area of the quilt is more likely to get a little dirty, from dust, pets and just the loving touch of passing hands. Unfortunately, there is no way to avoid fading. Even it the quilt is not exposed directly to bright light, some fading will occur. Periodically refolding it will avoid one area to become more faded than the others. If you keep your quilt always folded in the same way, the creases will become permanent and if the quilt is already old and fragile, the creases might cause the fabric to break. Refolding will take care of that problem and prolong the life of your treasure. Apart from spreading it on a bed, the best way to enjoy a quilt in all its beauty is to hang it on the wall. It becomes the focal point of your room, adds its color and warmth to your decor and gives your home an incredible sense of comfort. Because of the height of your ceiling and the size of the room, you have the possibility to display very large quilts. The best way to avoid putting irregular stress on the fabric and causing damage is to put a sleeve on the back of the quilt and thread it through a rod. You can decide to have an apparent rod and in that case choose the style of rod that complements your decor or leave the rod out of sight. Here is how you put a sleeve on the back of your quilt: Decide how your quilt is going to hang, the long side up and down, or the long side parallel to your floor (this depends on the size of your quilt and the place you want to put it in the room). Most commonly, quilts hang the way they would be on a bed, long side up and down. Measure the side that will be on the rod, from edge to edge. Let's take 85" as an example. Purchase a 1/4 yard of muslin or any other fabric that will be 85" wide (you can find muslin 90" wide. Most other fabric will be 45" or 60". Then buy two 1/4 yard pieces and sew the short sides together to get the needed length). If your quilt is going to be hanging from the ceiling or away from the wall and be visible from both sides, you will want to make your sleeve out of a fabric that will match or complement the fabric on the back of the quilt, so that it is not too obvious. If the rod is to be apparent, measure the long side of the sleeve to be the same plus 1" than the side of your quilt. Here 86" (85" +1"). Turn under 1/4 twice at each end and top stitch. If the rod is to be hidden, measure the sleeve so that it is approximately 3" shorter than the side of your quilt. In our example, 82". Turn under the ends in the same way as above which will leave you approximately 81". Fold the fabric lengthwise, right sides together and sew. You will have a tube of fabric. Turn it right side out and the sleeve is ready to be attached to the quilt. Place the sleeve just underneath the binding, positioning it so that the center of the sleeve matches the center of the side of the quilt and whipstitch both long sides, catching the backing fabric and the batting but not going all the way through to the front. When you are done, your quilt is ready to be hung. Just thread the rod through the sleeve, hang it and enjoy. Quilts will give you many, many years of pleasure and make your house a cozy and comfortable place to be. The style of a timberframe house will let you decorate in a traditional way or with a "country" look or lets you use very contemporary art pieces. This will be true for the quilts you use; they can be very traditional bed quilts or modern pieces of fiber art. No matter what you choose, there are a few things that will help you keep them longer: - make sure your quilts are displayed away from any direct sunlight. Quilts will fade, no matter what but you can slow down the process by avoiding direct sunlight. A north wall is a perfect location. You can also help by refolding your quilt periodically. If you own several quilts, change your displays every few months. Take some down and replace them with others. The ones you are not displaying should be carefully folded and stored in a clean pillow case, never in a plastic bag which promotes humidity and mildew as well as parasites. It is a lot of work to wash a quilt without damaging it. So, unless your quilt is very stained, a gentle vacuuming through a clean sheet or cheese cloth will remove the dust and give it a cleaner look. For more information about contemporary fiber artist Martine Caillon-House, contact Housefiber@aol.com

Wood-Mizer News: "Building a School"

By Steve Smith

In 1994, I bought a Wood-Mizer sawmill to begin the process of building a large post and beam house on my family land in the mountain wilderness of North Carolina. I had explored many work situations from teaching to construction, and while all of these trades had taught me valuable lessons, I had not yet found the job that I liked well enough to dedicate myself to it long term. After setting up the sawmill, I began cutting poplar logs that were being harvested from the mountain. It was no time before other people saw what I was doing and began asking me to do custom cutting for them. As I continued to work on my home, this custom work grew into a part-time job. I alternately spent two weeks doing custom work and two weeks constructing my home. It was wonderful to have the freedom to schedule and plan at my convenience and not someone else's. This part-time custom work continued for two years and soon led to another lucrative part-time business. As the shell of my home took shape, a friend of mine came to see the progress. He was a developer in the Cayman Islands and was building a timber frame house there. After seeing the quality of the lumber I was producing with the Wood-Mizer and the project I was building, he suggested that I take a timber framing class and spend the winter with him in the Caymans helping to build his house. It was a golden opportunity, so I attended a timber framing workshop at the Upper Loft in northern Georgia and discovered that I loved the timber framing craft. When I returned from the Cayman Islands timber framing project, I eagerly launched my own part-time timber framing business. My experience with the sawmill proved to be excellent training for the timber framing craft. I had gained the knowledge needed for grading lumber and cutting logs, woods, and beams. The precision cuts of the Wood-Mizer prepared the timbers for the exactness required for mortise and tenon joinery. As we moved more into timber framing, we were able to keep our sawmill busy cutting timbers. This worked out great because we could run the sawmill on sunny days and do timber framing on rainy days. Our focus is on traditional methods and craftsmanship. Unlike most crafts, timber framing can generate a substantial income. As time passed, our business, Cowee Mountain Timber Framers, became quite successful, and we started a timber framing school to complement our efforts. My background in construction and teaching had finally dove-tailed. In the school, we teach basic timber framing techniques within a one-week workshop and focus on three main skills: layout, cutting techniques, and trial assemblies of bents and cross-sections of the frame. Students use some power tools, but the main emphasis of the workshop is on proper use of hand tools--mainly chisels and mallets--and extensive hands-on experience. There are two 20-minute question-and-answer sessions each day that include discussions of different aspects of basic timber framing. Student bring their own 25-foot tape measure, carpenter's pencil, carpenter's square, 1.5-inch framing chisel, and wooden mallet. They leave with knowledge, hands-on experience, and a love of the craft. Dedicated apprentices who expend enough time and energy leave with the expertise to start their own businesses. Students travel to our school from as far away as England and Canada, and they come for various reasons. Some want to become informed buyers of a timber frame home; others want to learn the skills to cut their own timber frame. A few want to investigate timber framing as a career. Many arrive with doubts about their ability to be good at timber framing. But after spending some time at the workshop, they find that if they take their time and work deliberately, they can be successful at building the timber frame home of their dreams. Basically, timber framing requires an engineer's brain and a mule's back. Timber framing school is an investment in some of your time, a little of your money, and a lot of your sweat. The only monetary cost to the student is a $200 registration fee. Our payment is the students' labor. As one of very few timber frame schools, we offer year-round workshops and apprenticeships. We also conduct winter workshops in a heated facility. While a week-long workshop gives students an overview of basic timber framing techniques, more in-depth experience is gained through the apprenticeship program. Many times the apprentices have the opportunity to participate in raisings or to be involved in applying stress skin panels (insulation panels attached to the outside of a finished frame). Timber framing is an easy business to start because there is a huge demand for timber frames and few businesses to build them. Almost every timber frame business is backed up six months to a year. Timber framing is more prevalent in the Northeast but is becoming quite popular in the Southeast I feel fortunate to have discovered the opportunities presented by the Wood-Mizer sawmill. Purchasing the mill was the beginning of a way to create not only an income but a flexible lifestyle that I love. I can blend my interests in quality construction and teaching, schedule time to travel, and at the same time give something back to the community in the way of jobs. It has also been rewarding to work with many Wood-Mizer owners, helping them find a new and rewarding part-time career to complement their sawmill businesses. Steve Smith is owner of Cowee Mountain Timber Framers, nestled in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountains. For more information, call (828) 369-8186, or check out timberframingmagazine.com.

Traditional Building Magazine

by James R. Marshall

Timber framing is an ancient art in human habitation; it's also a modern technique that can lend special qualities to today's buildings. Timber framers are specialists whose knowledge and experience can spell the difference between disaster and a highly pleasing building outcome - if architects and their clients make proper use of them.

For this article, we spoke to several noted timber framers and asked them for their suggestions on how best to make the architect-client-timber framer triangle work. They all answered in chorus: "Call us often, but make sure to call us early!" In other words, if you want to take advantage of the special skills these folks have to offer, bring them into the design process early -- at the conceptual stage, before you're committed to a design that just doesn't make the best use of timber framing's strengths and aesthetics.

Tom Harris, president of Architectural Timber & Millwork of Hadley, Mass., says his firm works closely and frequently with architects. "It's important to bring us in at as early a stage as possible," he says. "That way we can familiarize the architect with the special considerations needed to make a timber-frame design that is engineerable and meets codes. But we look to the architect for the aesthetics of the project - the species of wood, sizes and surface treatments, and whether to use new or recycled woods."

All the projects that Harris' firm works on are custom jobs, and the firm handles all the engineering itself. Harris' company will propose materials and layout and will draw on its historical knowledge of timber framing and the appropriate loads and spacing. "The main reason to use a timber framer is his design ability," Harris maintains. Some architects are quite sophisticated about timber framing, he finds, and become more so by working with a good timber framer.

Architectural Timber & Millwork does residential and commercial projects, including some historical reproductions, primarily in the Northeast. "We're oddballs," says Harris. "We'll tackle anything." He cites a current project to build an Adirondack-type lodge that features 20-in. cedar columns, bark still on, which "had to be handled like eggs, packed in hay to prevent damage to the bark surface." The firm often works with recycled woods, usually beams from old factories, for floor planking or timber frames. But when these old beams are cut, the fresh surfaces must be treated to look old - "we antique the antique," says Harris, by means of hand-planing and/or fuming.

Steve Smith, of Cowee Mountain Timber Framing in Franklin, N.C., says there are two ways to start a timber-frame structure - with the frame itself, or with the architectural concept. But, to avoid conflict between these two, Smith urges that the architect and framer work together from the beginning (a state of affairs, he laments, which is all too rare) -- otherwise, an architect can invest a tremendous amount of effort in a concept that may have to be started anew when the realities of timber framing intrude. "The architect is thinking about what the building is going to look like," Smith says. "He's good on the spatial concept and the design. I worry about the structure. If we don't get everybody involved as quickly as possible, you'll end up paying twice as much."

Cowee Mountain does mostly residential work and concentrates on what Smith calls the simpler or "lower end" of the timber-frame market. The firm has a workshop and apprenticeship program and works with Job Corps' Carpentry Program. This means that their prices are lower and that their buildings tend to be rustic style, built mainly in North Carolina and its surrounding states. But you can still build an interesting structure with a simple timber frame, using standard 24- or 28-ft. bents, if you apply some creative architecture, Smith points out. Cowee's favorite material is the white pine so common in the Smokey Mountains, along with some oak; the firm works only with new wood, not recycled. ("I don't like the splinters," Smith observes.) The firm's contracts cover just the shop work, although Smith himself will provide job-site assistance at an hourly rate.

Robert Shortridge, president of Dreaming Creek Timber Frame Homes, Inc., of Powhatan, Va., welcomes the chance to work with architects. "They have the inherent knowledge of design and engineering - we know the details of timber framing," Shortridge says. Like his colleagues, Shortridge urges early involvement of the timber framer. "If it's already committed to drawings," he says, "we can't do value engineering; for instance, mistakes like specifying 10-1/2-ft. bay spacing, when we have to work with 12-ft. timbers, can be avoided."

Shortridge believes the main attraction of timber framing, besides aesthetics, is its structural strength, particularly in extreme weather conditions like heavy snow or wind. Dreaming Creek has provided framing for commercial structures on the Florida coast for a Class 3 wind exposure, and in Utah for snow loads of 320 psi. Dreaming Creek owns its own sawmill, and can cut up to 45-ft. lengths of timber, as well as flooring, decking, and trim. The firm favors Southern yellow pine, as well as white oak and Douglas fir, but can work in cedar, cypress, walnut, cherry, and other woods indigenous to Virginia.

Another advantage to timber framing, Shortridge points out, is that "we can come in with 40% of the project already done, which is great in a place like Florida where the economy is bursting at the seams and local labor is short." Shortridge describes Dreaming Creek as "fearless. We'll take on anything," he says, citing a 20,000-sq.ft. home, 2,000 miles from their mill, on a dead-end mountain road in Utah" - on schedule, on budget, no change orders." The company has also been active in historical restorations and recreations; for example, they have supplied white oak timbers for the restoration of Poplar Forest, Thomas Jefferson's weekend and vacation home in Lynchburg, Va. Another historical project is a reproduction of a 16^thcentury European windmill for The Mid-America Windmill Museum in Indiana. The whole structure pivots on a 28-in.-x-33-in.-x-20-ft. center post. In Utah, the Dreaming Creek crew is duplicating an old-fashioned church raising, where 150-200 people will pitch in to hand-raise one of eight 40-ft. clearspan hammerbeam bents.

Richard Neroni, president of Timberpeg Design, West Lebanon, N.H., believes the conceptual drawing stage is the best time for the architect to come to the timber framer. "Then we can discuss both the framing and the aesthetics." The worst thing, Neroni says, is when the architect has designed the frame and the joinery without consulting the framer. Timberpeg has an architect as head of its own 15-person design department and is therefore prepared to work closely with the architect to get what he or she wants.

Timberpeg works on complete buildings or roof systems, using primarily Douglas fir and Eastern white pine, as well as some recycled timber, although demand is low for the last. The firm avoids oak, Neroni points out, because it tends to twist, check, and shrink more than other species. "This looks OK at first, but not good later - unless you want the rustic look." His company is unusual, Neroni maintains, in that it offers both bent framing, erected in sections by crane, and post-and-beam construction, which is erected piece by piece in the field. It also offers both the more common pre-assembled stress-skin panel enclosures, and wrap-and-strap enclosures that are assembled at the site. Timberpeg offers a complete package, Neroni says "framing, enclosure, mill work, siding, and roofing "or individual pieces. The company has two manufacturing facilities and four regional companies with regional managers; it works nationwide and internationally.

Red Suspenders Timber Framing is in Nacogdoches, Tex., and its president, Tim Chauvin, agrees that the timber framer should get into the design process early. "We enjoy working with architects," says Chauvin, "and appreciate what they bring to the table." But he doesn't expect architects to be fully up on the nuances of timber-frame design, and he believes that if the timber framer is fully integrated into the design process big mistakes can be avoided, such as an improperly butressed hammer-beam truss, a medieval construct of many small pieces that was designed to sit on closely spaced masonry walls. "Gravity hasn't changed over the intervening 300 years," Chauvin notes.

Also, without the framer, Chauvin warns, constraints can be built in or emotional commitments made to a design that prevent "the chance to do something nifty." He sees the architect-timber framer relationship as analogous to the writer-editor relationship. "There must be mutual respect - timber framing is not everyday carpentry."

Red Suspenders offers its own in-house design service as well, for clients who prefer not to have their own architect. The company specializes in Southwest regional designs, with a touch of Texas history. Preferred woods are kiln-dried Southern pine and recycled Douglas fir. "That used to be the only way to get really dry wood," Chauvin observes, "and we still like recycled wood for its character and patina." The company keeps its ear close to the ground for news about the availability of such wood from anywhere in the country - from old factories, saw mills, and warehouses.

Chauvin sums it up this way: "The relationship between architect and timber framer should be a good collaboration - they should work together and educate one another. If they do, the process gets better each time."

James R. Marshall was trained as a chemical engineer and spent more than two decades in the environmental field working for the Environmental Protection Agency of New York City and then the federal government. He is now an independent consultant.

For more information about Traditional Building Magazine: htcstaff@traditional-building.com

Timber Framing in Mexico

By Steve Smith

In the summer of 1997, I received an email from Mexico inquiring about the possibility of me teaching a timber framing workshop in that country. The Mexican entrepreneur offered me and my partner a week at a beachfront hotel in Puerto Villarta in exchange for my teaching a week-long workshop and supplying the necessary tools. Their dream was to start a log home and timber frame business in Mexico after learning basic timber framing skills in the workshop.

After arriving in Mexico, my partner and I visited the new business site four hours away in the mountains. Once there, we learned that the Mexicans had just purchased a new sawmill but didn't know how to use it. Our original agreement was that they would have the timbers cut when we arrived for the workshop. So my first order of business was to check out the sawmill, teach them how to select the proper trees in the woods for timber, how to operate the sawmill, and how to turn out appropriate logs. I spent four hours teaching them how to operate the sawmill. My partner and I then returned to Puerto Villarta for our week at the beach.

At the end of the week, my partner returned home, and one of my apprentices from home flew in. He and I went into the mountains to begin the workshop. When we got there, the Mexicans had about half the timbers cut. We assembled our group and started the workshop. In the group were three engineers, two architects, and five workers from other fields. We started with the basics and from that progressed into layout. By the end of the week, we had completed the project, a 28 x 28 queen post timber frame cabin. This would be the first of several timber frames and log cabins in their business development.

This trip combined the satisfaction of sharing knowledge and traveling to a foreign country. There is nothing like seeing the joy of students in a foreign country as they see their building project go together.

Note: If you have a project in a foreign country, contact Steve Smith. He will occasionally exchange foreign travel for heading up a timber frame project. Of particular interest are non-profit organizations and churches in third world countries.

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